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Top picks
A dedicated photo printer gives you control a print lab cannot: you see the result, adjust, and reprint until the color and detail are right. The good ones use many inks, not the four in an office printer, so skin tones, skies, and shadows render the way you edited them. The trade is that the printer is cheap relative to the ink and paper it drinks.
If you are getting your files ready to print, our intro to photo editing guide covers the editing that comes first, and color grading basics covers getting color right before it reaches paper.
How to choose
Start with dye versus pigment, the key fork. Dye-based printers lay down vivid, glossy color and cost less, which suits prints for display, albums, and gifts; the prints last a long time behind glass but fade faster than pigment if exposed. Pigment-based printers use inks that resist fading for decades, handle matte and fine art papers beautifully, and are the choice if you sell prints or want archival permanence. Pigment printers and their inks cost more.
Then size to your largest real print. A 13-inch-wide printer handles up to 13 by 19 inches, which covers most home and small-business needs. A 17-inch or wider printer suits gallery and exhibition work but takes up a desk and costs more. Buy for the print size you actually make, not the one you imagine.
Last, weigh the ongoing cost and the paper. The printer price is the smallest part; ink and paper are where the money goes, so check cartridge prices and how many inks the model uses before you buy. More inks usually means better color but more cartridges to replace. And the printer is only half the result: good photo paper matters as much as the machine, so budget for it.
The picks
The Canon PIXMA PRO-200 is the default recommendation for most photographers. Its eight-ink dye system produces vivid, saturated prints up to 13 by 19 inches, with glossy output that looks gallery-ready straight off the tray. It is faster and cheaper than the pigment pro models and a joy for display prints, albums, and gifts. Dye fades faster than pigment under harsh exposure, but behind glass the prints last for years.
The Epson SureColor P700 is the pick if your prints need to last. The ten-ink pigment system resists fading for decades, renders deep blacks and subtle tones, and handles matte and fine art papers that dye printers struggle with. It is the choice for selling prints or building an archival portfolio. It costs more up front and per print than a dye model, which is the price of permanence.
The Canon PIXMA PRO-100 is the value pick for big, punchy color. An eight-ink dye printer that turns out vibrant 13 by 19 inch prints for less than the newer pro models, it is a popular entry into serious printing. The color is rich and the cost of entry low. It is an older design and the inks are dye rather than archival pigment, but for display prints on a budget, the value is hard to beat.
The Epson EcoTank Photo ET-8550 is the pick for high-volume printing. Instead of cartridges, it uses refillable ink tanks with a six-color set, so the cost per print drops sharply once you print a lot. It prints up to 13 inches wide and doubles as a capable document printer. The tanks cost more up front and the color is not quite at the dedicated pro level, but for anyone who prints often, the running cost is the lowest here.
The Canon SELPHY CP1500 is the pick for quick, small prints. It uses dye-sublimation to make smudge-proof, water-resistant 4 by 6 inch prints in about a minute, straight from a phone or card. It will not make a gallery print, and it is limited to small sizes, but for events, instant gifts, and photo-booth fun, it is compact, cheap to run per print, and genuinely convenient.
Common mistakes
The most common one is judging a printer by its sticker price and ignoring the ink and paper, which over a year cost far more than the machine. Check the running cost first. The second is buying a dye printer for prints meant to be sold or archived, then watching them fade; for permanence, pay for pigment. The third is printing on cheap paper through a great printer and blaming the printer for flat results; the paper is half the picture, so match a quality photo paper to the model.
A printer is the last step in a careful workflow. See our raw vs jpeg guide for capturing the most editable file, and how to read a histogram for nailing exposure before a file ever reaches paper.
Dye or pigment printer, which should I get?
It depends on what the prints are for. Dye printers give vivid, glossy color, cost less, and suit display prints, albums, and gifts that live behind glass. Pigment printers resist fading for decades and handle matte and fine art papers, which is what you want if you sell prints or build an archival portfolio. Choose dye for vibrant everyday prints, pigment for permanence.
Why does a photo printer use so many inks?
Office printers use four inks; photo printers use eight, ten, or more. The extra inks, including light grays and additional color shades, let the printer render smooth skin tones, subtle skies, and neutral black-and-white without the color casts and banding a four-ink printer produces. More inks generally means better color, at the cost of more cartridges to replace.
Is it cheaper to print at home or use a lab?
For occasional prints, a lab is usually cheaper because you avoid buying ink and paper that can dry out between uses. Printing at home pays off when you print regularly and value the control: you see the result, adjust, and reprint until the color and detail are right. Tank-based printers lower the per-print cost if you print in volume.
Researched, not personally tested: picks come from specs, verified-owner reviews, and expert sources, scored into the Aperture Score. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. We may earn a commission from links here, at no extra cost to you. How we research →




